My Bullion Butte Day

By Dr. Mike Vandall

Sunday, May 29, 2022, was a fantastic day in southwestern North Dakota! A very friendly and energetic group of twenty-six avid outdoor enthusiasts from all over the State met in Medora for the Badlands Conservation Alliance Bullion Butte hike. This was a very strenuous day-long undertaking, making time for interesting discussions and presentations about history, Theodore Roosevelt, and the geography and geology of The Little Missouri River and Badlands. Other topics of discussion were the native fauna and flora of the Badlands. Many hikers saw mule deer, golden eagles, turkey vultures, and hawks. This was the greenest I have ever seen the Badlands as there were many blooming wildflowers, chokecherry bushes, buffalo berries, Russian olives, juniper and cedar trees, etc.

The climb gradient was moderate and, at times, steep but, by mid-day, we reached the flat, green top. Here, there were absolutely stunning views to the north, west, and east. Once the top was reached, it was a perfect place for rest, lunch, pictures, and more visiting and discussion. 

Clay Jenkinson, a nationally recognized historian, author, and public humanities scholar has made many hikes up this majestic butte. Clay revealed many facts that day, and his recollection of climbing this butte on a New Year’s Eve 2000, the dawn of a new Millenium and spending all night camped out alone is an amazing story of solitude and love of the Badlands. He and fellow hike leader Lillian Crook tag-teamed in assuring that all participants made it to the top and back to their cars without any injuries and between them shared many historical accounts of the landscape. Although Clay and Lillian have had many Badlands adventures together with mutual friends over the years, this outing was the first they had led together, and it was agreed that Lillian had indeed hiked the butte at an earlier date than both Clay and her husband, Jim Fuglie. During the lunch break on the huge prairie sweep at the top of Bullion, Clay introduced participant, Sharon Kilzer, the Director of the Theodore Roosevelt Center who had joined us for her first hike up this butte, and who two days later was retiring from her distinguished career. The group heartily toasted her achievements and on we hiked to the south side of the butte. Lillian’s younger sister, Beckie Walby, also kept the group gathered together and assured that everyone got back to the vehicles where cold water and beer was waiting, and conversation included getting together again at some future BCA outing. 

In the minds of many, Jim Fuglie, former North Dakota Tourism Director, is the “distinguished professor emeritus” for this scenic region. He has climbed Bullion Butte about 15 times. Jim showed us his “most precious view in North Dakota”- maybe anywhere that day! We all were in agreement.

Participants went home with handouts, maps, new friends, new knowledge and memories made on the trail, and a renewed love of the Badlands. Yes indeed, this trip brought back many precious memories of prior trips to the Badlands. My son Cody and I experienced gratitude, peace, joy and happiness throughout this magnificent day.

Mike Vandall is a retired OB-GYN physician, who grew up in Dickinson and Bismarck. He and his son Cody and their families live in Minot. mtvhealth@srt.com